What happens if I run into trouble during installation of my gauge?

 

Firstly, we should say that we’ve tried to avoid any troubleshooting for you by:-

  • Having clearly written instructions
  • Having a comprehensive range of matching sensors
  • Supplying adapters and bushings with all our senders to accommodate the most common thread types.

However, if you do get into trouble, then help is only an e-mail away at [email protected]

 

I have just received my new gauge but the pointer is not in the correct position?

 

The newer electronic gauges are mostly stepper motor driven. If during transit the gauge is knocked, the pointer can move position. Once you have installed the gauge correctly, power it up, during its startup routine the pointer will either do a full sweep of the gauge or advance about 10 degrees and then return to its correct position. If the pointer had moved significantly during transit, it may take a couple of power on/off cycles to rectify, ensure you wait a few seconds between each on/off cycle to allow the processor chip to shutdown correctly.

 

My car already has senders fitted, do I need to buy new to go with my gauges?

 

The answer here is “it just depends”. Around the world there are 3 or 4 different electrical standards for gauges and senders. The standards are normally expressed in terms of their ohmic values at the low and high end of the scale shown on the gauge. So a typical European standard would be 10 ohms at empty and 180 ohms at full for a fuel gauge/sender combination. In North America you may find gauges that are 240 ohms at empty and 33 ohms at full.

CAI follow the European Standard, so if you have compatible senders, then that’s fine. If you don’t then you will need to buy matching senders from us, and although we’ve used a fuel gauge as an example, the same is true for all electrical temperture and pressure gauges.

 

What’s the best way to pick up a speed signal from my electronic speedometer?

 

There are several ways of picking up a speed signal, but some are definitely better than others, our recommendation, in order of preference would be:-

  • If your engine is of recent manufacture with electronic management then you can collect a very clean, precise signal from the electronic control unit of the engine management system, and you also avoid the need to buy and fit a sensor.
  • If you engine was originally fitted with a speedometer, then you will have a mechanical take-off for the speedometer cable. Here you could fit a hall effect device, which uses the mechanical take off to generate an electronic signal, or you can use a magnetic sensor kit as described below.
  • If you engine came with neither a speedometer cable take off, nor an electronic engine management system, then you will have to use a magnetic sensor, to count the revolutions of the prop shaft or the revolutions of the road wheels. CAI offers a magnetic sensor kit which can be ordered when you purchase your speedometer.
  • we can also supply GPS devices that will provide a pulsed input into your speedometer, you will need to check whether this is an accepted method of speed measurement in your country

Detailed fitting instructions are available for the sensor kit

 

What preparations do I need to make prior to installing my instruments?

 

The most important rule is DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, before attempting any electrical connections.

 

Can I get my gauges repaired and/or speedometer re-calibrated?

 

All our manufactured products carry a full 12 month warranty. We do not offer a repair service on older products as it is generally more cost effective to reproduce a new replacement gauge.

We limit our support to our current product range, with a rolling 10 year cut off, subject to availability of parts.

 

 

 

Still not got the answer you were looking for?

 

Don’t worry, our technical team are on hand to answer any of your questions. E-mail: [email protected]